The aesthetics specialty is ever-changing in an effort to provide patients with even more effective and safe treatments. In the last year, these products have been game-changers in the field, marking them as Finalists for The DigitRx by Church Pharmacy Award for Product Innovation of the Year at The Aesthetics Awards 2023.
Our esteemed judges assessed them for innovation or advancement in enhancing outcomes and safety, all backed up by sound evidence.
Following the announcement of the Winners, we’re casting a spotlight on these innovations and finding out the science behind them to help you choose the latest innovations to boost your clinic success.
HArmonyCa™ Lidocaine – WINNER
The science
Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie company, has released its first hybrid injectable, HArmonyCa – the only dual effect product containing hyaluronic acid (HA), calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA) and lidocaine for patient comfort. It is designed to improve skin architecture through innovative dual action in one product, providing an immediate lift from HA and a sustained lifting effect from new collagen production associated with CaHA. According to the company, the product is intended for facial soft tissue augmentation via injection into deep dermal and sub-dermal layers.
The results
In a study of 163 participants, more than 90% reported an improvement in the general appearance of facial areas following treatment, with high levels of satisfaction sustained up to 19 months after treatment.1 In a further study of 48 patients, 86% out of 85 regions treated with HArmonyCa showed clinically significant improvement.1
What practitioners say
Recent winner of The Dermalogica PRO Award for Medical Aesthetic Practitioner of the Year at The Aesthetics Awards 2023 Dr Sophie Shotter commented, “I am delighted to see HArmonyCa with this well-deserved Aesthetics Awards win for Product Innovation of the Year. HArmonyCa is a true innovation in the injectable space and is the first product in what I believe will be a new category of injectable products – hybrids. Both my patients and I have been delighted with the results HArmonyCa delivers, and it is a must-have within my treatment plans.”
Topilase – HIGHLY COMMENDED
The science
Topilase is the first natural topical hyaluronidase which can be administered through massaging into the skin without injection. The product can enable filler treatment adjustment and dissolving in the face without injections, minimising over-correction and HA degradation. According to Prollenium, Topilase is made of a combination of enzymes – protease, lipase and hyaluronidase – concentrated within a dispersing agent, helping it permeate the skin successfully to break down HA chains.
The results
A study of 17 female patients receiving one to three treatments with Topilase found that two to four weeks after final treatment, physician-assessed contour improvement was 8-10/10 for seven patients, 5-7/10 for six, 1-4/10 for three and 0/10 for one patient. Fifteen patients evaluated their skin as more uniform (5/10 to 10/10). Satisfaction scores were 7-10/10 for 13 patients, 6/10 for two and 0-1/10 for two.2
What practitioners say
Dr Sandrine Sebban, French aesthetic practitioner, commented, “Topilase allows me to sculpt the faces of my patients, and for the first time ever, offers doctors the power to adjust their results thanks to a risk-free cosmetic care.”
Letybo – COMMENDED
The science
Letybo (Letibotulinumtoxin A) is a newly registered neuromodulator for the treatment of glabellar lines, licensed for treatment in patients aged between 65 and 75 years. It has proved successful in temporarily improving moderate to severe vertical lines between the eyebrows in more challenging cases, including mature patients.
The results
In a clinical trial with 355 subjects and a 94% response rate, 48.5% of patients who had severe glabellar lines achieved no or minimal lines by the fourth week post-treatment. The median onset time was three days, with almost one out of four patients reporting a ≥1-point reduction in lines within the first 24 hours after injection.3 The mean time until first retreatment was required was 127 days (around 19 weeks).3
What practitioners say
Aesthetic practitioner Professor Syed Haq commented, “Letybo has looked at a broader age range than ever before – adult patients up to and including 75 years old, as well as a significant number of male patients. As the global population increases in age, we now have an increased ability to manage and treat patients with a product registered to treat mature patients.”
Alluzience
The science
Alluzience is the first and only ready-to-use neuromodulator that avoids any calculations to reconstitute the product from powder to liquid. It is approved for treatment of moderate to severe glabellar lines.12 It provides long-lasting duration (up to six months) and rapid onset (visible results within 24 hours).12 It is the first neuromodulator available in the UK with proven uplift in patients’ psychological wellbeing stated on label.12
The results
A study of 372 patients with moderate to severe glabellar lines who were treated with either Alluzience (n=250) or placebo (n=122) demonstrated that more than 50% of patients reported an effect within two to three days, including 23% of patients within one day.12 At month six, 27% of patients had a ≥1 grade improvement in glabellar severity by subject assessment.12
What practitioners say
Facial aesthetic surgeon Dr Kuldeep Minocha said, “As the first ready-to-use anti-wrinkle injection, Alluzience marks a new era in treatment innovation for glabellar lines. Like many aspects of physical appearance, glabellar lines can have a significant impact on patients’ confidence and wellbeing. With its innovative liquid formulation, the availability of Alluzience BoNT-A liquid toxin will allow me to consistently optimise precision and results.”
Biretix Tri-Active Gel
The science
Biretix is a clinically proven skincare range designed for oily and spot-prone skin. The Biretix Tri-Active Gel contains RetinSphere Technology – a unique combination of retinoids exclusive to its makers Cantabria Labs – combining hydroxypinacolone retinoate (a retinoic acid ester) and retinol, encapsulated in micro-sponges for high efficacy and tolerability. It also contains BIOPEP-15, a unique anti-microbial, botanical complex that reduces the proliferation of acne-causing bacteria. Its other active ingredients include glycolic acid, salicylic acid and niacinamide.
The results
A study of 21 patients between the ages of 15-30 was carried out. The patients had mild acne with active lesions and some scarring and/or hyperpigmentation. They applied Biretix Tri-Active Gel twice daily for 28 days and 95% reported a more uniform skin texture, 90% saw fewer imperfections, 86% had a much more even complexion and 81% had fewer spots.4
What practitioners say
Doctor and haematologist Dr Massimo Milani said, “The combination of retinoids and anti-bacterial agents are considered a first-line treatment approach in mild to moderate acne. This innovative solution is a powerful tool in the treatment and management of mild to moderate acne symptoms when used alone or as adjuvant to alternative acne treatments.”
Cyspera Intensive System
The science
The three-stage Cyspera Intensive System of Cyspera Intensive, Cyspera Neutralise and Cyspera Boost skincare system are the first products to contain the proprietary molecule Cysteamine Isobionic-Amide Complex. This activates a synergistic action for pigment correction and skin health. The combination of cysteamine and isobionic amide is clinically proven to be fast and effective against hyperpigmentation without the safety concerns of corticosteroids, retinoic acid and hydroquinone.5
The results
Of 100 patients studied after 16 weeks using Cyspera Intensive System, 81% noticed improvements in the skin complexion, 71% found their skin more luminous and radiant and 94% found the products easy and pleasant to use.6 Clinical results show the Cyspera Intensive System is well tolerated for long-term use and doesn’t cause photosensitivity.5
What practitioners say
Consultant dermatologist Dr Jinah Yoo commented, “The Cyspera Intensive System is an exciting and innovative launch as it offers a long awaited, clinically proven alternative to hydroquinone. The three-step system delivers impressive results on persistent epidermal pigmentation to even out the skin tone. Its suitability for long-term use makes it a game-changer in pigmentation treatments.”
GF5 Bio-Regenerative Growth Factor Serum
The science
CellDerma GF5 is a multifaceted serum which delivers an innovative combination of growth factors (biomimetic peptides) and neuropeptides in one product. The product’s formulation includes five unique growth factors (in supra-therapeutic concentration) identical to those found in the human placenta. When applied topically, these are designed to help reverse the ageing process and repair existing damage for all skin types.
The results
Of 12 females aged 43-50 who used Growth Factor Complex in GF5, after four weeks’ use, demonstrated improvement in skin elasticity by 47%, hydration by 64%, reduction in crow’s feet lines by 21% and under-eye wrinkles by 46%.10 A retrospective study was conducted looking at healing following ablative skin resurfacing comparing two consecutive 12-month periods, the first using a conditioned stem cell media and growth factor cream and the second using GF5. This observed a 92% drop in reported concerns with GF5.11
What practitioners say
Aesthetic practitioner Dr Rashpal Singh said, “For the past 15 months we have been particularly astounded with the results that we have been achieving with GF5 from CellDerma. GF5 has helped us to plug a gap in our ‘sensitive skin’ patients to help repair their barrier function when, historically, they may not have been able to safely tolerate certain treatments due to downtime and risks. We utilise GF5 after any invasive procedure and we have personally found an improved healing time in more than 500 patients as well as reduced complication rates.”
GlycoAla
The science
GlycoAla is the only product combining photosensitising drug 5-aminolevulinic acid (5-ALA) and hyaluronic acid (HA). It uses unique Glycosphere nanotechnology to deliver both 5-ALA and HA into the skin where an enzymatic process converts the 5-ALA into potoporphyrin lX (PPIX), a photoactive chemical. Activation using a red LED light source leads to a photodynamic response, producing oxygen free radicals to treat oily skin, inflammatory and comedonal acne, sebaceous hyperplasia and photodamage.13
The results
GlycoAla is a nanotechnology delivery system for 5-ALA. It has not yet been peer-reviewed. However, its encapsulation of a low strength 2% 5-ALA to create a photodynamic response has proven both safety and efficacy by reducing the surface effect of higher percentages of ALA.14,15 Nanotechnology is rapidly becoming a new method for the delivery of active ingredients into the skin, minimising epidermal irritation and maximising treatment effect.
What practitioners say
Aesthetic practitioners Dr Jan Birch and Dr Robin Stones said, “We have been using GlycoAla within the clinic for a while now and found it to be a safe and effective treatment for acne and photodamage. The results have been very pleasing and patient feedback excellent. It can be used in all skin types and repeated as necessary with consistently good results. It fits nicely into our aesthetic portfolio.”
Revox Line Relaxer
The science
Revox Line Relaxer is a serum specially designed to be paired with a neuromodulator to enhance the reduction of expression lines. The product utilises LineRelax Technology featuring five potent peptides plus gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA). According to studies, the serum substantially reduces the appearance of horizontal and vertical expression lines in the forehead and glabellar lines, crow’s feet, under-eye lines, nasolabial folds, marionette and vertical lip lines.7,8
The results
A 12-week clinical study of 55 subjects using Revox Line Relaxer as a stand-alone treatment for fine lines showed that 15 minutes post-application, 97% showed an improvement in the appearance of expression lines and under-eye lines, and 45% showed an improvement in the appearance of wrinkles. After eight weeks, there was a 29% average reduction in the appearance of expression lines and under-eye lines, increasing to 38% by the 12-week mark. There was an improvement in the appearance of radiance, texture and overall appearance.9
What practitioners say
Ophthalmologist, oculoplastic and reconstructive surgeon Miss Rachna Murthy remarked, “The Revox Line Relaxer from Revision Skincare is a game-changer. It visibly reduces under-eye expression lines and crow’s feet, delivering great results on its own as a stand-alone product, especially in areas where injectables can’t be used. It’s even better when combined with injectables as it works synergistically to improve longevity of treatments, and support and optimise the quality of skin for maximum results.”
